For fashion insiders, Nensi Dojaka has been the new name to know in womenswear ever since her first solo runway last September, but having just staged her third fashion week showcase – and perhaps her best yet – it certainly won’t be long before the London-based Albanian native becomes a household name.
Nensi’s latest collection may have been staged at 10am on a Sunday, but that wasn’t going to stop the loyal contingent of buyers, press and celebrity fans flocking to North London before many of the local coffee shops had even opened their doors. Nor was it going to influence the collection at all.
No, there was nothing Sunday-morning-soccer-mom about this spectacle. Rather, Nensi’s vision for spring/summer 2023 remained entirely true to her already instantly-recognisable brand of elevated, sophisticated sexiness which, if anything, was only amplified by its juxtaposing position on the schedule.
After all, if these super sheer, strappy dresses are going to catch your eye on a Saturday night in an appropriately moody venue, you bet they’re going to stop you in your tracks in a bright white Islington show space sipping your prised Sunday morning flat white.
But while Nensi’s delicately engineered strappy aesthetic has become her signature, her vision for next season is bursting with new and innovative iterations of this skin-baring DNA.
Delicate pleating and fragile frills add dimension to wafer-thin chiffon, while lurex and lace have been introduced for the first time; injecting and embellishing pieces with unexpected textural accents.
She’s also expanded her colour palette, branching out from her familiar moody-hued mood board and welcoming subtle animal prints alongside lilacs, silvers and even a splash of Barbiecore pink.
A shoe debut was the only thing that might be able to distract the front row’s attention from these exquisite pieces, and thanks to a very clever caged leather mule – in black, orange and pink with occasional studded crystal embellishment or a sculptural heel for decoration – Nensi’s first foray into footwear was a resounding success.
So, too, was her stellar line-up of models, which included fashion favourites Jill Kortleve, Paloma Elsesser and Vittoria Ceretti.
Of course, it was fan of the brand and fellow feminist Emily Ratajkowski closing the show which captured the headlines in the immediate aftermath, but with everyone from Zendaya and Bella Hadid to Jourdan Dunn and Dua Lipa having already fallen for her designs, we predict that you’ll be seeing a lot more of Nensi Dojaka – and this impeccable collection – next season.